Milia Causes, Removal and Expert Tips to Prevent ‘Milk Spots’

Those hard, white bumps on your skin that just won’t let up, no matter how hard you squeeze?

They probably aren’t spots.

Often tiny but always annoying, milia can crop up anywhere under the skin, although most of us tend to mistake them for acne clusters or even skin tags.

The good news? There are simple ways to stop milia from rearing their heads and some seriously effective methods for milia removal if you’re late to the game.

Ahead, a top dermatologist share the best way to treat milia once and for all.

What Are Milia?

Before you undergo some major milia removal, it pays to know exactly what they are.

Spoiler: Even though they may look similar to whiteheads, they are nothing like them.

‘Milia are small white bumps or cysts that appear on the surface of the skin when dead skin cells become trapped,’ explains Consultant Dermatologist at Skin 55 Dr. Anjali Mahto.

‘They are made up of keratin, a protein on the outer layer of the skin, and whilst they resemble whiteheads, they are not related to acne or infection and are simply a pocket of normal skin. They shouldn’t be treated in the same way,’ she adds.

What Causes Milia?

According to Dr. Anjali, milia on the face are usually formed spontaneously, and there are a number of factors that contribute.

‘Milia found around the eye area can be caused by heavy creams, where the skin around the eye is much thinner than other areas of the face,’ adds Dr. Anjali.

But they can also crop up elsewhere.

‘Milia can also occur on the nose and other areas of the body,’ she says. ‘They tend to occur as a result of skin damage – predominantly sun damage – as well as rashes and excessive use of harsh products on the skin.’

Filippo Fortis

How Do I Get Rid Of Milia?

It goes without saying, but don’t go squeezing the milia as that can cause scarring and damage the skin barrier. Instead try these methods to safely and effectively tackle the pesky spots.

1. Gentle Exfoliation

There are endless benefits to exfoliating your skin, including: minimising hyper-pigmentation, banishing blemishes and reducing superficial acne scarring – and seeing as milia are a result of trapped skin cells, exfoliation is brilliant at keeping them from springing up, too.

‘[Gentle exfoliation] allows the dead skin cells to be removed, resulting in much less build up,’ explains Dr. Anjali.

‘It also allows for moisturiser to penetrate the skin further,’ she adds, which means you’ll get a hell of a lot more out of your luxury skincare arsenal.

ELLE Edit: Gentle Exfoliators

Daily Clarifying Peel

While AHA’s are good for getting rid of dead skin cells, the use of them alone won’t do much for acne-prone skin. This exfoliating peel from Murad combines a powerhouse trio of AHA, BHA and a retinoid to clear congested skin in a formulation that’s gentle enough to use daily.

Be Your Best Enzyme Balm Cleanser

Much gentler than most acids, pineapple enzyme steals the show as the exfoliating star in this moisturising balm, helping the skin to shed dead skin cells and in turn giving a brighter appearance to the skin.

Overtime Mask

Sometimes there’s nothing as satisfying as a physical exfoliant, but some versions can leave your skin irritated and your barrier compromised. This mask incorporates apricot seed powder to polish off unwanted debris, while skin-loving oat kernel protein and Vitamin E leave your skin plump and glowing.

Pure Clarity Purifying PHA Skin Tonic

A must-have in the arsenal of sensitive skin types, this exfoliating toner harnesses the gentle but effective power of polyhydroxy acids (aka PHAs) and niacinamide to help clear congestion and resurface your skin.

Sunday Riley Good Genes – £85

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Good genes has cemented itself cult status in the exfoliator game, thanks to a stellar line-up of glycolic acid, lactic acid and prickly pair extract which refine, brighten and boost your complexion. If you’re an exfoliator novice, start out using this twice a week and build from there.

Glossier Cleanser Concentrate – £19

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Since its launch, this exfoliating cleanser has gained rave reviews from people who have been suffering with acne for years. It’s not surprising, given the formula strikes a perfect balance between gentle exfoliants and soothing extracts. If your current cleanser feels too harsh and stripping, make the swap to this one and don’t look back.

PIXI Glow Tonic – £18

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Formulated with aloe vera to deliver hydration to the skin, 5% glycolic acid stars as the main exfoliating attraction of this tonic to give a baby-like, bright complexion.

Ole Henriksen Dewtopia – £49

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While 20% might seem like an intense percentage of acids, 10% of these are PHA’s which are a great option for those with super dry and sensitive skin. Thanks to the larger molecular size of PHA’s, you can expect less irritation with glowing results.

Cerave SA Smoothing Cleanser with Salicylic Acid – £12.50

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If you’re new to acids or have found that toner versions make your skin too angry, try an acid-boosted cleanser instead. This is gentle but does a good job at smoothing any little bumps.

Medik8 Press & Glow – £27

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PHA is generally regarded as the best-for-beginners acid (compared to AHA). This exfoliating toner can even be paired with retinol.

REN Clean Skincare Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic – £28

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Bump-busting and dead-skin-cell-clearing, this is one of the most tried, tested and trusted exfoliators. Try it before make-up for super smooth application.

Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant -£31

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If you’ve ever asked a beauty editor for advice on exfoliating, they’ve likely mentioned this. People genuinely call it life-changing, due to its resurfacing, spot-busting powers.

2. Chemical Peels

Superficial peels containing AHAs and BHAs, including glycolic and salicylic acid, provide accelerated, chemical exfoliation without the need to aggressively scrub your skin.

Non-abrasive, they only lift off the top layer of skin, ensuring the skin is ‘clean and fresh,’ according to Dr. Anjali. And fewer dead cells = fewer unsightly bumps.

Can’t make it to a professional clinic? At-home face peels are gaining traction among those on a quest for clearer, more refined skin, and with high concentrations of exfoliating ingredients like lactic and glycolic acid, the de-congesting, complexion perfecting results are pretty much undeniable. However, less is more when working with acid-infused products at home. Start with a lower concentration once a week to see how your complexion reacts, and keep the rest of your skincare routine gentle with barrier-building ceramides and hydrating ingredients.

ELLE Edit: At-Home Face Peels

KateCeuticals Resurfacing Overnight Peel

When it comes to facial peels, you can guarantee that Kate Somerville knows what she’s doing. This overnight peel packs some serious resurfacing ingredients including retinol and glycolic acid to speed up skin cell turnover and bring forth your best skin.

Peel Express

If you’re forever seeking that post-facial glow, look no further than this resurfacing glycolic peel. While you might not expect your facial peels to deliver hydration to your skin, this jelly formula does exactly that thanks to the presence of moisture-retaining humectants.

Vinoperfect Glycolic Peel Mask

If you’re not a fan of overnight peels, this glycolic scrub-and-mask only requires you to leave it on for ten minutes before unveiling a bright new complexion with pores looking visibly minimised.

Enzyme Peel

Harnessing the gentle buffing properties of fruit enzymes to eat away at surface-level dead skin, this peel offers a gentle alternative to stronger exfoliators that might cause irritation to sensitive skin types.

Alpha Beta Glow Pad Intense Glow

You’ll be hard pressed to find a Beauty Editor who doesn’t love Dr Dennis’ peel pads. Easy to use, and with a range of strengths for all skin types, they provide a thorough yet foolproof way to fresh, soft skin. Our favourite? These ‘glow’ version, which also add a hint of bronzy tan to your complexion. Genius.

Papaya Enzyme Peel

Natural and gentle, so better if you’ve got a more sensitive skin type, the fruit enzymes nibble away at dead skin revealing a smoother, brighter complexion after use. Simple to use, it’s a great option for beginners who are nervous of more aggressive formulas.

Radiance Recharge System

Ok so this isn’t strictly a peel, but there is a potent peel as part of this 10 day skin reset formulated by facialist to the stars Sarah Chapman. Bookmarked by hydrating and glow-boosting ‘skin care shots’, the lactic acid based peeling ampoules are allllmost clinic strength, meaning you’ll be looking at facial-level results at home. Worth the investment.

AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution

You’ve probably seen this Vampire-esque solution all over Instagram: a garnet red mask looking like the wearer has had a horrible accident. But don’t be put off by the colour, the blend of AHA and BHA exfoliants can – used correctly (it is a potent strength but not an unsafe level) – do wonders, especially on oily skin types. Use once a weekly to help keep blemishes and dullness at bay.

Replenishing Multi-Acid Peel

Easy to use (just shake it to mix the bi-phase formula, sweep on with a cotton pad at night: simples), this AHA/BHA blend is formulated to accelerate cell renewal, and is proven to speed it up by 33%. Which means brighter skin, plumper skin, and even reduced scarring and lines.

Radical3 Reboot Pro Peel

Dr. Levy Switzerland

£89.00

Created by former laser and wound-healing specialist (aka expert at healing and rebooting skin) Dr Phillip Levy, this product is the perfect balance of effective and fortifying. Leave on for a few minutes and rinse off, then expect some light peeling a couple of days later. No redness, no stinging, just baby-soft skin.

Glycol Lactic Radiance Mask

REN Clean Skincare

£36.00

If congested and sun-damaged skin is getting you down, then REN’s Glycolic acid mask is the one for you. Formulated with 5-6.5% Glycolic acid, it’ll slough away dead skin cells minus the irritation – which means it’s ideal for even sensitive skin types.

PHA+ Resurfacing Facial Pads

Drenched in four different hydroxy acids, Zelens’ quick pads blur lines, dark spots and send enlarged pores into submission. Just don’t be confused by the PHA part. These acids are really similar to AHAs but have a higher molecular structure which slows down the rate at which they penetrate the skin, making them perfect for those who have issues with sensitivity.

3. Ditch Heavy Creams For Lightweight Textures

If milia tend to cluster around your eye area, it could have something to do with the texture of your skincare products. That super-luxe eye cream you just splurged on? It might be doing your skin more harm than good.

Applying thicker creams to thin and delicate areas of skin has the potential to both block the pores and to trap dead skin cells – cue an army of pesky under-the-skin bumps.

The solution? A lightweight eye cream formula that’s quickly absorbed without blocking pores.

ELLE Edit: Lightweight Eye Creams

Peptides and Omegas Firming Eye Cream

This silky formula has everything but the kitchen sink; Vitamin C, peptides, bakuchiol and squalane are just a few of the highly effective ingredients that make up this small but mighty rejuvenating eye cream.

GinZing Refreshing Eye Cream

Thought the only way to combat tiredness with coffee was by drinking it? Think again. This brightening cream contains caffeine and hyaluronic acid to perk up tired peepers.

Super Eye Serum

The skin around our eyes can be damaged by a lot of things, from sun damage to pollution. Verso’s Super Eye Serum contains their Retinol 8 Complex stimulates the skin under our eyes into producing more collagen, resulting in a firmer, plumper appearance.

RéVive Sensitif Eye Cream SPF30 – £130

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Say au revoir to tired eyes with RéVive’s eye cream which comes with a built in metal applicator tip built in to help hydrate and depuff the eye area.

Moisturising Eye Fluid

If you’re looking for a nourishing eye cream without the thick texture, stop the search. This lightweight formula enriched with vitamin E leaves you with smoother under eyes (plus make-up looks great on top of it).

Pigmentclar Anti Dark Circles Eye Cream

This caffeine and niacinamide enriched serum comes complete with cooling metal applicator to perk up tired eyes and minimise dark circles.

r-Retinoate® Day & Night Eye Serum

Retinyl Retinoate, a form of vitamin A eight times stronger than retinol, is the star ingredient in this anti-aging serum. One small pump of this and fine lines and dull looking skin won’t know what’s hit them.

Water Boost Hydrating Eye Gel

If the strain of hours spent in front of a screen has left your eyes feeling tight, tired and dry, this hydrating gel is like a tall glass of water for your peepers.

The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG – £6.40

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Light as a feather and majorly brightening, this is the furthest thing from a heavy, pore-blocking eye cream you can get.

Biossance Squalane + Peptide Eye Gel – £43

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The squalane in this means mega hydration, without relying on richness. A treat to apply.

Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Gel-Creme

Here the famous ANR complex (brightening, smoothing, moisturising) is harnessed in a lightweight but velvety gel-like formula.

Drunk Elephant Shaba Complex Eye Serum – £50

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Vegan and fragrance free, this formula is jam-packed with ingredients that help minimise fine lines and dark circles while protecting the delicate eye area from the effects of environmental aggressors.

4. Incorporate Retinol Into Your Night-Time Routine

Retinols (vitamin A derivatives) are brilliant at kick-starting cell turnover, and less layers of dead skin results in fewer obstructions, fewer white bumps and a more even, flawless skin texture.

And although retinol has bit of a bad rap in skincare for turning complexions flaky and red, most modern, non-prescription formulas are kinder on skin. Just make sure you ease into it with a weekly application and don’t use them alongside acids.

Bumps, be gone.

ELLE Edit: Retinol Serums and Creams

Bio Retinoid Youth Serum

REN Clean Skincare

£57.75

Skin not reacted well to retinol? That doesn’t mean you have to miss out on better skin. Luckily brands such as Ren are increasingly opting for retinol alternatives, such as Bidens Pilosa, the plant-derived ingredient used in this serum that delivers the same skin-renewing benefits.

1% Retinol Booster

Grown attached to your current serum and don’t feel like ditching it for an entirely new retinol-based one? No need. Instead, get your hands on Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Booster, a low-level retinol that can be added as a few drops into your current moisturiser or serum.

+Retinol Vitamin C Moisturiser

We all love a 2 for 1, but this skincare find is better than bagging a bargain. Kate Somerville has combined brightening vitamin C with the skin rejuvenating effects of retinol for a cream that leaves skin plump, smooth and even in tone.

Universal Pro Retinol

Retinol newbies, come right this way. Glossier’s 0.5% retinol brings together pure retinol and sunflower seed fatty acids for a dynamic duo that smooths lines, minimises pigmentation, while avoiding dryness and irritation.

Kiehls Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum – £62

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If you’ve just arrived onto the retinol scene, firstly welcome, secondly you’ll want to start with a low % of retinol. Enter Kiehl’s retinol micro-dose serum, which delivers the skin-renewing effects of retinol alongside a peptide and ceramide complex to ensure you don’t experience redness, peeling, or any of the other unpleasant side effects some retinols can trigger.

Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil – £85

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Another favourite for retinol first-timers, Sunday Riley’s retinol-infused night oil has acquired such a rep thanks to its infusion of blue tansy, a flower extract with skin healing and anti-inflammatory properties.

The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane – £6.95

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A budget buy but don’t underestimated the results this product can give you; the nourishing squalane oil keeps skin moisturised and looking fresh while the retinol does it’s thing. Note, this % is for the more experienced retinol user but it’s also available in 0.2% and 0.5% for those with less tolerance.

Beauty Pie Super Retinol – £70 (£16.50 with membership)

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This serum calls on the gentle but effective power of slow-release retinol and pairs it with hyaluronic acid and ceramides so that even sensitive skin types can get a piece of the retinol pie.

Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum – £77

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If you’re a newbie to retinol, these capsules are a good way to start. The individual doses mean you won’t overdo it, and the ceramides help to calm skin.

SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3% Cream – £72

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No frills or fuss, this medium strength retinol should be phased into your regime slowly, but once it is you should see a noticeable difference

La Roche-Posay Retinol 0.3% + Vitamin B3 Serum – £39.76

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A great option for sensitive skin types, this soothes and it smoothes.

Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum – £79

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The tri-active formula contains three types of retinol: one that acts fast, one that keeps working over time, and one that boosts effects.

5. Professional Extraction

‘There are many tried and tested treatments available for the removal of milia,’explains Dr. Anjali, ‘however one of the most common is by using a sterile needle to create an incision in the skin, making way for careful extraction.’

But to avoid infection and scarring, don’t attempt it at home without consulting a professional first.

‘The treatment should be undertaken by a qualified dermatologist,’ stresses Dr. Anjali. ‘They will be able to recommend the best way of extracting the milia. The best type of treatment will also depend on the type of milia you have, as well as the number and location on the face.’

Filippo Fortis + Imaxtree

6. Avoid Increased Sun Exposure

This one is a given, but according to Dr. Anjali, increased sun damage and milia go hand in hand.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, incorporating an SPF into your morning skincare routine is just as important in the winter months as it is in the summer, especially if you’re using peels or exfoliators containing acids, as they can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays.

ELLE Edit: Facial SPFs

ShadeDrops Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Mineral Milk Sunscreen

Finally, an SPF that’s a real pleasure to use. This goes on like silk, offering SPF30 protection without feeling heavy, greasy or imparting a white cast.

Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50+ Sun Cream

Use this in place of moisturiser in the mornings. It’s incredibly hydrating, doesn’t pill under make-up and wears comfortably throughout the day.

Invisible Shield – £20

Glossier

This clear SPF works perfectly for every skin tone under the sun. The water-gel consistency is great for those with oilier complexions too.

Supreme Screen Hydrating Facial Skinscreen SPF 50+

For those with dry skin, this high-factor SPF is just what the dermatologist ordered. It delivers ample hydration without clogging pores, refuses to pill under make-up and is packed with vitamin C to encourage glowing skin.

SPF50 Sheer Sunscreen Niacinamide and Green Tea Mineral Drops

Say goodbye to chalky mineral sunscreens. This one by Odacité is elegantly formulated to feel like second skin. Plus, it has niacinamide to minimise excess oils and green tea to protect against the elements.

Fenty Skin Hydra Vizor Invisible Moisturizer Spf 30 – £34

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Trust Rihanna to create a lightweight SPF that leaves no grey tint behind. Plus, it’s vegan and refillable too.

Invisible UV Flawless Poreless Primer SPF50

Charlotte Tilbury

£40.00

Just want that your-skin-but-better finish? Look no further. This featherlight tinted SPF sinks in quickly, leaving skin looking brighter, fresher and more even. The perfect one-and-done product for vacays and no make-up days.

Dr Barbara Sturm Sun Drops SPF 50 – £110

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You can use these lightweight drops as a serum, which sits smoothly under make-up, OR add them to your daily moisturiser to transform it into a high factor SPF. Clever stuff.

7. Book In For An Electrodessication Treatment

We know what you’re thinking: Electrodessi-what?

But if you’ve been down the exfoliation, chemical peel and retinol route to no avail, you might want step up your game and book in for a professional treatment to get rid of your milia.

‘This process uses electricity [and a fine metal electrode or probe – not as terrifying as it sounds, promise] to heat the skin and to destroy the milia,’ explains Dr. Anjali – but don’t worry, it’s done under a local anaesthetic cream to minimise any twinges.

Crystal clear skin? Yes please.